Astypalaia travel Guide
Holidays in Astypalaia combine tranquility, rest, swimming and diving in crystal clear waters, good food and fun in the shops of the town. In the summer, the Cultural Festival of Astypalea is also organized, and many festivals with live music and feasting.
Astypalaia is one of those secret islands that receives few foreign visitors, but is very popular with Greeks. On this splendid island of the Dodecanese, where local traditions are still alive, your holidays will be dedicated to good fish and swimming in almost deserted bays, which still seem to exist, even if increasingly rare.
Not to be missed here is a visit to Astypalaia’s capital, Chora, with its fine white houses and a crowning Venetian castle, and a visit to the windmills, as well as the small port of Maltezana. Particularly between seven and nine in the evening when the fishermen return to sell their fish and prawns directly from their boats for a taste of local life and its traditions.
The postcard-perfect Chora of Astypalaia with its beautiful Venetian castle defines the travel image of the island, which in the summer is a favorite destination for travelers with a sophisticated but also young profile – as it has camping sites and timeless nightspots.
Spread on a tongue of land between the bays of Pera Gialos (the old port) and Livadia, the capital gathers all eyes on it day and night, from the neck with the windmills and the haunts of the square to the Venetian castle of the Querini and the alleys that lead to the churches of Panagia Portaitissa and Megali Panagia.
The island is not particularly large and has a bus service as well as tourist boats, which serve your main routes to the resort of Maltezana and the beach fish taverns of Schinontas (both on the eastern side, after the natural strait that separates Astypalaia from Mesa and Exo Nisi, but also to the Livadi tourist settlement and the best beaches on the west side, at Vatses and Kaminakia you can reach them by tourist boats but also by car through a dirt road.
Information about the island of Astypalaia
Astypalaia island is located west of Nisyros and east of Anaphi. Its area is 97 square km and it has a coastline of about 110 km with many natural harbours, bays and islets. The island is made up of two rock masses, joined by an isthmus (land strip) of 110 meters. The main settlement of the island is Chora which is located on the west coast and is built on the same area as the ancient city. Above the city dominates the fortress, with its two white churches that Giovanni Quirini restored in the fourth century and which is highly emblazoned in the popular musical tradition, such as the “Forte di Astropalia”.
The city extends down the coast until it joins the port which is known as “Pera Yialos”. A short distance from Chora is Livadi, a very rich coastal valley. Indeed it produces exceptional quality citrus and vegetables and ends up on an idyllic beach. In the northern part of the island there is a large well organized port with a small settlement called Maltezana or Analipsi. Vathi, located along a picturesque bay, is another settlement which reached its peak in the past thanks to the large quantities of lime which was sufficient to cover local needs and also to export.
The ancient writers speak with wonder of the beautiful climate of the island and the multitudes of game that breed especially among pheasants and rabbits. Of the abundant quantities of fish and sponges in the surrounding seas. It is worth noting that snakes find no adaptability here and therefore are not found there.
What to see
The heart of Astypalaia beats at the summit of the Chora hill, where the stone castle, a landmark of the island since the 13th century, proudly stands. Built then to protect against pirates who roamed the Aegean, today it continues to adorn the beautiful settlement with its imposing presence.
Astypalaia’s trump card is also its exceptional beaches, with crystal-clear waters. For many, the most unique beach is Kaminakia, though it’s not the only one. Psili Ammos, Steno, Livadi, and Vatses are a few more of the island’s shores, each with their own wild beauty.
One of Astypalaia’s key attractions is Panagia Portaitissa, located beneath the castle. This bright white church, dating from the mid-18th century, boasts a silver dome and an impressive bell tower, and is an integral part of the island’s photographs.
Many medieval ruins can be found scattered all over the island. Also worth seeing on the island are the windmills, the one of a kind quaint little houses built inside the fort (Land Lines), perfect beaches and its natural harbours. Inside the fortress there are two old churches, namely St. George and the Virgin of the Fort (the Annunciation).
However the main cult site is “Our Lady of the Gate” (Portaitissa), which is celebrated with a feast on the 15th of August.
In the Castle with the 2 churches you can also visit: Panagia of Castro and Aghios Georgios – An Archaeological Museum – Pera Gialos – Aghios Ioannis Castle – SW coast of the island – Monastery of Panaghia Portaitissa-Livadi – Megali Panaghia church-Pera Gialos – Ecclesiastic museum
Kounoupa the hidden gem of Astypalaia
The small islet of Kounoupa, accessible only by sea, could be described as a miniature earthly paradise in the middle of the Aegean, thanks to its stunning waters.
Essentially, it is a narrow strip of land connecting one side of the islet to the other, forming two beaches on either side. Note that Kounoupa, together with the islet of Koutsomitis, creates the “exotic setting” of Astypalaia.
To reach them, you will need a private boat or take one of the tourist boats that depart daily (weather permitting) from Pera Gialos.
Local cuisine
The pure ingredients of Astypalea yield top-quality products. The island’s fruit and vegetables, grown with dry farming techniques, have a distinctive flavour, while the local meats from the island’s livestock farmers and the natural dairy products complement the fish and seafood generously provided by the Aegean. The crown jewel is the famous saffron, which grows wild and is collected by the locals every autumn from the mountainsides.
The local thyme honey is renowned for its exceptional quality. Around 80 people are involved in its production, choosing to cultivate it using traditional methods, and the results speak for themselves. Its bouquet of aromas, rich, pure taste, and unique amber colour place it in high demand. Among the local products are also the island’s pasta, particularly lazania and makarounes.
Local homemakers make the most of these raw materials, adding wild aromatic herbs and using their grandmothers’ traditional recipes to create small masterpieces. The *kitrinokouloura* (made with milk, pure butter, saffron, and spices) are a household staple, as are the rusks flavoured with thyme and herbs.
Be sure to try the famous *pougkia*, small pastries filled with *kopanisti* cheese and *chlorotyri* (soft mizithra cheese), which pair uniquely with the local honey. The traditional sesame and honey treat *pasteli* is a must at weddings and baptisms, enjoyed by both young and old.
As for the cooked dishes, the island’s traditional dish is *lambrianos*, a stuffed goat with rice, liver, and plenty of spices, slow-cooked in the oven, and a highlight at every celebration and festival. Meals are accompanied by vine-leaf *dolmadakia*, and if you have the chance, try the zucchini flowers, meatballs, *rantista* (lentils with pieces of dough), octopus fritters, and the famous fish stew *kakavia*.
Where to swim
With the castle in the background, families prefer the deep bay of Livadi (with beach cafes and tavernas) and spread out their mats under the tamarisk trees in sandy Agios Konstantinos, while groups prefer the pebbly and nudist beaches of Tzanaki and Magazaki, note that you must go down a trail for 5-10 minutes and keep in mind that the sun sets early.
Towards the area of Maltezana, the Plakes, the tiny Blue Limanaki and the sandy beach at Steno stand out. Easily accessible, with tamarind trees and fish taverns, the sandy beach in Schinontas, popular with families.
Alternatively, for more private dives, you can continue walking to the pebbly coves in neighboring Kareklia. During the summer season, boats leave from Pera Gialos for the best sandy beaches of the island, Vatses, Kaminakia (where there are also taverns) and Ai-Yiannis, but also for diving in turquoise waters on the uninhabited islets of Kounoupa and Koutsomytis.
Where to stay
Chora
Chora is the capital of Astypalea. It is located in the centre of the island, below Steno, on Mesa Nisi. Perched high on a rock, it commands an imposing position, almost as if it overlooks the Aegean.
Chora is a traditional settlement, characterised by its charming, whitewashed houses that extend all the way down to Pera Gialos (the old port). The New Port is situated above Steno, approximately 5 kilometres from Chora.
Admire the traditional stone windmills, and in the evenings, wander through the narrow cobblestone streets, where there are many options for food and drink.
Throughout the settlement, you’ll find various accommodation options, cafés, and restaurants, as it is home to the largest population on the island.
Livadi
Livadi is a beachside settlement, quite popular with tourists, and attracts a large number of visitors. It is located next to Chora, and you can reach it either via the steep downhill road that passes by the windmills or via the ring road.
Livadi beach is large and organised, offering sunbeds and umbrellas, with tavernas, cafés, and bars surrounding it. The beach itself is a mix of coarse sand and pebbles.
There is a good selection of hotels, studios, and rental rooms in Livadi, and the area remains lively from morning until night.
It’s an excellent choice for accommodation, as you’ll be literally on the beach and within close proximity to Chora.
Pera Gialos
Pera Gialos is located at the foot of Chora and is now almost indistinguishable from it. It was the traditional and old port of Astypalea, which was used until recently for passenger ferries.
Today, it hosts private boats and sailing yachts in the small marina that has been developed. Around the harbour, you will find a few cafés, tavernas, bars, accommodation options, and the beach.
Pera Gialos beach is an excellent choice for a swim, as it is sheltered from the wind and has tamarisk trees providing natural shade.
Here, you will also find the Archaeological Museum of Astypalea, which houses artefacts that recount significant events from the island’s past.
Analipsi
The area of Analipsi, also known as Maltezana (a name likely derived from Maltese pirates), is located on Exo Nisi. To get there, you must cross Steno. The distance from Chora is approximately 8.5 km, and from the New Port, 6.5 km.
Analipsi is the second-largest settlement on the island. It’s a great choice for accommodation if you’re travelling with children and family, as it’s quiet and offers plenty of lodging options.
Maltezana has a small harbour where you’ll see many fishing boats anchored. The locals use these to catch fresh fish, which they supply to the nearby tavernas.
Maltezana’s beach is sandy with shallow, crystal-clear waters, making it ideal for young children. You’ll find a few sunbeds and umbrellas, but there is also natural shade provided by the tamarisk trees.
The Green Energy island of the Dodecanese
Since 2023, the island has been undergoing a transition to green energy. To this end, solar and wind power units have been installed to supply electricity to homes and businesses, ensuring that no fossil fuels will be used, gradually phasing out by 2026.
Opinions on this change are, of course, mixed. Some strongly support the decision, while others believe that the large wind turbines will detract from the island’s beauty and character. Already, most rental cars on the island are electric, reflecting the shift towards sustainable energy.
How to get to Astypalea
By ferry
Astypalaia is connected several times a week with the port of Piraeus and has frequent connections to other islands in the Cyclades or the Dodecanese, such as Rhodes, Kos, Naxos, Paros, and others.
Astypalaia has two ports. The Old Port is located in Pera Gialos, which has essentially merged with Chora. The New Port of Astypalaia, also known as the port of Agios Andreas, is located above Steno – the narrow strip of land connecting the two parts of the island – at a distance of 6 km from Chora. Make sure to check in advance which port you will arrive at and depart from.
Piraeus το Astypalaia ferries operates 5 times a week during the summer season. The route is served by Blue Star Ferries. The journey from Piraeus to Astypalaia takes approximately 8 to 9 hours, depending on the intermediate stops, as the route passes through several Cycladic islands, such as Paros, Naxos, Donoussa, and Amorgos.
By Air
Although Astypalaia is a relatively small island, it has its own airport. It’s a small airport that handles either direct flights from Athens or flights with stopovers. Usually, connections are made via Kos or Leros.
Astypalaia’s airport is located in Maltezana, 8.5 km from Chora. As you might expect, this alternative means that you will need to secure your tickets well in advance.
Useful Telephones
Municipal Services: +30.22430.61206
Port Master’s Office: +30.22430.61208
Rural Surgery: +30.22430.61222
Pharmacy: +30.22430.61444
Police : +30.22430.61207
Travel Agency-Municipal Information: +30.22430.61412
Airport: +30.22430.61665